3DPrinting

They've been coming out fine for about 700 hours (of print time, not light on time) now on my Photon Mono M5s Pro. Now it looks like someone craved a chunk out of it with a knife or something. Here & here.

Pics https://ibb.co/album/sbjqwT (the weird triangle on the lower piece was fixed afterwards)

https://github.com/huggingface/lerobot

I've come to Realize that it seams the Printhead on my P1S is Slightly lose. If I push up on it, it ever so slight moves up. I can Basically wiggle it. That also suggests why I have been having what has been assumed to be Bed Leveling Issues. If the Head moves up in the Auto Bed Leveling Process, all things get messed up.

I have been looking at least prototyping in TPU 3D printed dog toys.

Would love to see some of your prints on here! When I was younger my dad and I built a 3D printer, and I loved it. Since then I haven't had the funds/time/space to get back into it but as that was like 12 years ago, I know 3D printing has gotten much higher tech.

https://openscad.org/

I've printed probably 5 kilos worth of prints with a lot of success, but exclusively PLA. I'd like to branch out to a new material. Should I start with ABS or TPU?

Hey gang, I'm on the fence about ordering a Prusa Core One. I have a mk3 and love it but I'm ready for an upgrade. Anyone here have any experience with a Voron 2.4 though?

Thingyverse is owned by Ultimaker, Printables by Prusa and makerworld belongs to bamboo. I don't really want to donate my models to a for profit company, so are there any similar community run alternatives where I can upload to? Cheers

So, I bought a 3D-scanner. I needed one that works without a PC, and the only ones currently on the market seem to be the Revopoint Miraco Pro and the Shining3D Einstar Vega. There have been mixed reviews about the Miraco, and Revopoint apparently had a history of abandoning older models. Shining3D also makes professional-level scanners that cost as much as a car, so I banked on them putting some of that expertise into their consumer models and went with the Einstar.

PETG has always been more fraught than PLA for me but as of late it just looks like a mess.

I have a cheap bedslinger at the moment, it prints well enough and with decent speed, but it's a little finicky whenever I need to start a new print and I sometimes have to stop and restart 2-3 times in the beginning to get the first layer good. I'm also having some issues with ASA warping (especially on overhangs) it's enclosed and heated to ~45°C.

I have pieces from an old chess game that I played a lot during my adolescence and so I have a special affection for it.

Hey all,

What is this about

I'm trying to print a small 1-walled part with fine details. If I just model and print it in PrusaSlicer, the travel moves cross through the middle of the part and leave strings. "Avoid crossing perimeters" does not help:

I print in my basement and keep a dehumidifier on 35%. Right now it's down to 20% because winter. I have a dryer and will usually dry out a new roll. But many times I'm lazy and leave them on the spool and they usually print just fine.

I have a piece of test equipment that needs to stay underwater for days. Normally I would use or make a waterproof case with a lid and a gasket.

I’m trying to find a hinge cover for my hp 14-fq it seems like it would be an easy print without clips but I don’t have the skills to make it myself and am trying to find a model

Is there a small printer with ease of use and quality comparable to the A1 mini?

I don't need anything too fancy, I just want to be able to watch the camera, and stop a print if it goes wrong. Networking is all set on my end too. Got an OpenVPN tunnelback to my house for other stuff.

Hi all, I've currently got a big folder full of a bunch of mishmashed sets of files in nested directories: * model files downloaded from thangs/thingiverse/etc * source files for models * my own SCAD source files for my own modeling projects * the stl exports of those files * I don't store the cura projects, but maybe I could * all the gcode. These get copied over to octoprint to print stuff.

So I had a problem that when i print multiple prints sometimes they dont fit together perfectly, theres a bit of bleed. I found a neat trick where you can just wave the joint over a candle for a second or 2 and fit it together. The filament becomes slightly soft and when connected it hardens to fit a bit better. That bottle cap just wouldnt screw in but now it does.

I was cleaning out my project closet the other day and I found an entire bottle of resin for my printer, still sealed and unopened... but it is several years old at this point.

My son is about ready for his first printer. His school is running Cetus MK3 printers, he has a class using them, and his teacher has recommended this printer. He also has an educational seat of Fusion 360.

I'm wondering if anybody has this working on their printer.

Howdy y’all! If a post like this isn’t allowed, feel free to remove it. But I wanted to give it a shot.

eSun and (obviously) Bambu provide filament configurations and process configs for their filaments in Orca Slicer (or Bambu Studio,but that won't be used here anymore).

I've been using my Bambu P1S Combo for roughly 2 Months now and have been loving it. I liked its User Friendliness, Speed, Quality and Reliability so much, that I wanted to get a second P1S Combo for all Multi colour stuff and then go on to try the A1 Series for Mono Colour Prints in a planned small Size Print Farm...

I thought this may be interesting for some of you. I filed a ticket with BBL to let them know I disapprove of the coming firmware auth changes. Today I finally got a reply, but it's just a lame ass copypasta, basically retelling what the update on their blog already stated, ie. "there will be developer mode and people are lying about the implications" (paraphrased tl;dr)

I am just curious as I want to build a filament extruder.

In the past I've gotten around this by printing on the left side of the bed, but some things need the space so here I am.